Stump Grinding Servicing Oakland County
Tree Stump Grinding Services
Tree stumps can be difficult to remove. They can be hard to mow around and can even attract fungi and other pests that may spread to surrounding trees. Grinding stumps is usually the best option for avoiding problems in the future.
Stump grinding is the most effective method for dealing with unsightly stumps. By grinding the stump, this technique puts an end to waiting years for the unsightly stump to rot, wasting money on stump rotting agents that don’t work, or mowing around the unwanted stump forever.
Benefits of Stump Grinding
Grinding a stump is more beneficial to the rest of your landscape than excavation and the remaining wood can be left to saved as valuable mulch. Stump grinding removes all evidence that there was ever a tree in the spot. The stump is ground off below surface level so that in most circumstances you can plant in or near the stump ground area right away.
No hole to fill in with new topsoil
No heavy wood or root to haul away
Re-landscaping is easier
Mowing and maintaining your landscape is easier
Protect your land from damages related to digging or burning the stump
Protection from fungi and other pests
No Chemicals in your land – In some areas use of chemicals is illegal
Stump grinding by our profession stump grinding team. No stump too big or too small. Bringing a beautiful look to your yard.
Commercial or Residential
Our services include residential and commercial properties. Licensed and insured.
C&C Stump Grinding specializes in Oakland County tree stump services. We work very hard so that you can sit back and relax. We makes it easy. There is no need to search endlessly or read countless reviews to find a reliable stump grinding professional. We’ve done all the work for you. Fully licensed, insured, and maintains a stellar local reputation.
We’re proud to work on residential as well as large commercial tree stump removal projects. Simply fill our our contact form, tell us what you need, and we will have a local stump grinding contractor contact you. If you have any questions please feel free to send us a message or give us a call. Get A Quote Today!
We are experienced
We Have Over 15 Years of Experience in The Industry
Using the best equipment on the market to ensure the safety of our service. Machinery is on tracks to minimize damage to yards and allows our team to run over things like sprinkler lines and septic fields without chance of any damage!
We will fit through any yard as our equipment is 35″ wide, fitting through most standard 36″ gates.
C&C Stump Grinding was founded to help with quality and honest pricing in the stump grinding industry. Our commitment is customer satisfaction. We have removed thousands of stumps & we’ve left every customer happy!
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Oakland County, Michigan
M-F: 8am – 9pm, S-S, 8am – 9pm
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If there is no particular hurry in removing the stump or if you can camouflage it, rotting is the easiest, cheapest and safest method of removal. You may also consider leaving a tall stump to rot naturally and provide food and habitat for wildlife. Rotting wood is a favorite source of insect food for a variety of birds.
The organisms that rot or decay wood are called fungi. Fungi do not possess chlorophyll and consequently must derive food from other sources such as wood stumps. For fungi to live and grow, they must have the proper temperature, moisture, oxygen and food conditions. Food is supplied by the stump or wood, and oxygen is supplied by contact with the atmosphere. For optimum fungal growth, the temperature should range from 50 to 90 degrees F. The wood moisture content should be approximately 20 percent to slightly higher, but not water soaked. These optimum conditions do not exist for long periods, thus stump rotting actually occurs intermittently and decay of the entire stump is a long-term process.
Where we Cut
To enhance decay conditions, the stump should be cut as near ground level as possible, covered with sod and kept moist. If possible, several large holes at least 1 inch in diameter should be bored vertically into the stump. These holes expose more wood and slightly hasten decay. During the first year following tree removal, the organisms that decay the wood tend to be nitrogen-limited. That means that the addition of fertilizer during the first year, especially a high nitrogen fertilizer, will hasten decay. Be careful not to add so much as to cause a fertilizer burn to surrounding plants.
The organisms that come along to decay the stump after the first year or so tend to be carbon-limited. That means that adding high nitrogen fertilizer no longer hastens the decay. The alternative is to add carbons (in the form of sugar) to the wood after the first year. Simply add some ordinary granulated sugar through those holes and the process will speed up considerably. Keep in mind that the heartwood of some species such as cedar, mulberry, and locust are naturally durable and will take much longer to decay than softer woods.
As the stump rots, depressions or holes will develop. These can be unsightly and a hazard. You can re-fill these depressions with topsoil as they develop.
The quickest, but unfortunately the most difficult, stump Grinding method is grubbing – that is, pulling or digging out the whole stump. Stumps from trees smaller than 14 inches in diameter are often not too difficult to remove with this method, but stumps from trees larger or trees with large tap roots such as hickory and pine may be very difficult to remove.
The usual method of grubbing is to dig a trench or ditch around the stump from 1 to 2 feet wide and 1 to 2 feet deep. Cut the lateral roots with an ax, grub hoe or mattock. On tap-rooted trees, pry the stump to one side and sever the tap root. Roll, drag, winch or slide the stump from the hole. On large trees it is sometimes helpful to leave a stump 4 to 6 feet tall. This high stump can be used as a lever to break the stump free of the ground and roots. You can re-fill the hole created by the removal of the stump with topsoil.
Burning has long been an acceptable method of stump grinding, but it is the least recommended way to remove stumps. This is because burning under low oxygen conditions, such as those surrounding the underground parts of the stump, creates charcoal that is almost impossible to decompose. If, however, you prefer to burn to remove the above-ground portions of the stump, it is important to check with local fire ordinances before burning. Do not burn stumps near buildings or other flammable materials or where human safety is involved. Because stumps may burn for two to three weeks, it is a good idea to build a temporary fence around them. A trench or fire line around the stump may help prevent the fire from escaping to wooded or grassy areas.
Dry stumps, like dry wood, burn the best. Because of its contact with the ground, a stump will never dry completely, but the moisture content will decrease after the tree has been cut and exposed to dry weather for some time.
Depending on the stump size, use a metal can such as a 5-gallon paint can and remove the top and bottom. Now punch 1-inch draft holes in the side and near the bottom. Place the stove on top of the stump (or down over it) and build a fire in it. Kindling may be used to start the fire, but charcoal or coal works better to keep it going. After the fire burns the wood of one part of the stump, move the stove to a new location. Bricks or stones may also be used to build a stove.
There is no miracle chemical on the market that dissolves a stump overnight. Some of the more common chemicals offered for sale are potassium nitrate or saltpeter, sulfuric acid and nitric acid. Some chemicals have been ineffective.
Many arborists (tree care specialists) or tree removal services have a machine that mechanically grinds the stumps to below the soil line. Also, some equipment rental business rent stump grinders. The process takes only a few minutes but may be expensive. This process leaves a conspicuous hole you can fill with topsoil. Check with your county agent or professional arborist for available services and prices.
Some trees have a tendency to sprout after being cut. Re-sprouting is not only undesirable from the standpoint of having the tree removed, but it may also slow stump rotting. To prevent sprouting, apply a herbicide to the freshly cut stump. The herbicide should be applied within 24 hours of cutting. Apply the chemical to the area where the bark joins the wood of the stump.
Contact your local county agent or garden center for the proper herbicide.